‘AI174 - San Francisco to Delhi - Boarding’ reads the LCD
display in the Air India Premium Lounge. Each time he waits in the
airport lounge to board a flight to India, Vijay is transported to that day 30
years ago. That day, looking forward to a new adventure in America, he had
feared leaving India. Today, he feels a sense of trepidation on the opposite
route. He knows the America he lives in but each time he goes to India, he
finds that a changed India awaits him. Asha gently squeezes Vijay’s shoulder
“Chalo, boarding shuru ho gayi”.
“Namaskar”, says an air-hostess, her hands folded in greeting,
her manner belying politeness or welcome. “Still haven’t learnt to wear a
welcome smile with their put-on namaskars”, says Asha to Vijay as they look for
their seats. Vijay winces and throws up his hands in resignation. In America,
Vijay wears his Indianness with pride. He rejoices in India’s economic progress
and its cultural history. Yet, of late, his first steps towards India are
ridden with doubt. His last trip, three years ago, had come as a shock. Vijay
wouldn’t have ventured to go back so soon, if it weren’t for his Course Reunion
after 50 years.
The course mates’ WhatsApp group called ‘Palatsars-68’ had
turned unusually active after the invitations were sent out by Delhi based
organisers. Months of collective cajoling had followed. A dear old course mate
based in Australia had suggested that many might not be able to travel long
distances for the next organised reunion. This was the last straw and many,
including Vijay, had booked their tickets.
“On our way”, says Vijay on the WhatsApp group. “Welcome back -
old friends await”, comes a prompt response. Vijay smiles and thinks of how all
his friends in India are old friends now. He was a bright, young officer in the
Indian Air Force once. Forced to leave the Air Force prematurely to attend to
his ailing parents, Vijay had failed to settle into a second career in India.
Indian industry had been more interested in his contacts in the Air Force than
his engineering or managerial acumen. After his parents’ demise, Vijay, Asha
and their two children had taken that first flight to USA.
The hum of the aircraft’s engines turns to a roar and Vijay
closes his eyes. The next time the wheels touch down, it will be on Indian
soil, he thinks. Amidst the excitement of a course reunion, he feels the
revulsion lingering from his last trip. He hears the brash voices of the angry
young men, who had roughed him up because he had not given them a pass - It had
not been their right of way. He hears the dismissive tones of the policemen and
the loud ruckus of the crowd that had gathered to ‘watch the fun’. “In-flight
entertainment is unserviceable. I am not even going to bother to ask this
time”, says Asha. “Such hospitality as only Air India can provide”, she adds
with a wry smile.
Vijay feels the familiar pang of guilt. He would have liked to
make a difference in shaping India. Yet, now he is a businessman from America,
a non-resident-Indian who criticises Indian ‘incompetence’ and apathy at will
but takes no responsibility for it. How would his Indian friends know that on
his rocking chair, on foggy evenings in San Francisco, Vijay often dreams not
only about India but for India? He now moves over to an empty window seat and
resumes dreaming, “where can we begin to change India?”
When Vijay had fallen ill just before class XII exams and
slipped in his studies, his father had said, “Focus on the weak subject,
improving which, will bring maximum benefit.” “Think of Maximum Leverage Area”,
he had insisted. Vijay had fared excellently. What would be the Maximum
Leverage Area for a country like India, thought Vijay. That was easy. It was an
answer he found on every trip to India – ‘character’.
“When people go to work in Delhi, they go to war on the roads and end up in
office on the other side”, he recalls his friend Mohan’s words. The disgrace, humiliation,
and indignity, the death of the spirit, the loss of time and the waste of
resources - a war that no one wins but each one fights. Vijay closes his eyes.
The national character - its dilution, depletion and the occasional resurgence is
all too evident on the roads. Is there an answer here, he wonders.
“Welcome Home Sir”, says a smiling air-hostess. “We have begun
our descent into Delhi. Would you like to get back to your seat?” Vijay is
pleasantly surprised at this cordiality from the airline staff. It makes Vijay
feel more at ease about this Indian holiday. He moves back to his seat beside
Asha and looks over her shoulder as the dots and specks below the plane windows
steadily gain magnitude. On landing, Vijay and Asha are in for another surprise
as passengers wait for those ahead of them to deplane first. “Hadn’t we
forgotten the ‘pehle aap’ custom long ago?” Asha can’t help the sarcasm.
They brace up for the uninviting immigration officers. But the officers, it
turns out, have magically transformed into a firm yet pleasant lot. For the
first time in so many years, Vijay and Asha feel welcomed by the gatekeepers to
their own country.
The first attraction is a meeting with course mates, Deepak and Manu,
who are at the airport to receive them. “So what do you think of the airport?”
asks Manu as the four of them wheel the baggage carts to the multi-story
parking. “World-class! I agree”, says
Vijay looking around in admiration. “Don’t get so excited. Wait till you get on
the road”, whispers Asha. Soon they are coursing on the four lane road that
bifurcates to Delhi and Gurgaon. Asha is incredulous. The traffic is slow but
steady even on the usually chaotic stretches - no honking or criss-crossing
across lanes. “Look at that”, Vijay points out to Asha. “What is it with Delhi
drivers today? So much discipline!” They cannot believe that vehicles halt on
‘Red’ well behind the pedestrian crossing line.
Deepak, who has been at the wheel, quietly smiling to himself
all this while, now ventures to explain. “We have another 20 kilometres to go.
So allow me to bring you up to speed with some san-sanee-khez khabar from
Delhi. Do you believe India is shining? I don’t mean economic
progress, international relations, soft power and all that. When you see what
you have just seen on the road, do you not believe India is shining?” Vijay and
Asha are both silent, non-committal but spellbound. Deepak continues proudly.
“It all started when a soldier in uniform was attacked by gundas in an incident of road rage. Nothing
new or remarkable by Delhi standards you would say. This time though, the
people’s patience had reached tipping point. The armed forces veterans’
associations came together and made a proposal to the Prime Minister’s Office -
a proposal that they not only found irresistible, but also followed up with
unprecedented swiftness. What you see on the roads is a result of that.”
“The discipline and civic courtesies have begun to be seen off
the road too, I would say”, says Manu. “What do you mean? What did they
propose?” Vijay asks, unable to imagine how this could have been executed.
Manu says. “Hai na? Just because it has never happened in
the past, many of us thought it could never be done. I admit I was in that
group for a while. Simply, this is what it took. About 2000 armed forces
veterans offered their services to the nation for a 6 month project at NO COST.
Armed Forces attached a few hundred serving personnel for assisting veterans.
And, even the police, usually conspicuous by its absence, produced cops in
large numbers. For the first 15 days, this large force spread across the NCR
guiding people with road rules, road etiquette and precautions against road
rage. After that, they were permitted to enforce discipline. The govt promptly
issued special ordinances for heavy penalties and also for authorising select
armed forces veterans as traffic wardens with command & control over the
mixed teams on roads.”
“The presence of veterans leading mixed teams with police at the
main traffic points ensured that the usual method of bribing to get away was no
more relevant…” asks Vijay. “Yes! The best part is that people have started
enjoying this change”, says Deepak. “I, for one, am certainly enjoying it”,
says Asha.
Deepak continues. “This multi-dimensional force has also made
roads available for the flow of traffic. In the first 15 days, they undertook
the herculean task of marking side lanes on every major road inside the cities.
Any motor or other vehicle outside these lanes was confiscated and penalised.
We understand that the government has plans to outsource installation of ticket
machines for parking on road sides. Contractors will recover costs through
parking charges and market places will be relatively free when people are not
permitted free parking.”
Vijay exclaims “Great! That should reduce safety hazards in
crowded places too. The western society has also had its periods of chaos. Even
where we live, it takes continuous enforcement to keep the road culture in
check.”
“In the 3 to 6 months period, the veterans are expected to
withdraw gradually, leaving it to the police to follow up. I hope we all will
get used to it by then”, says Manu. “The way it has gone in the last 3 months,
I am beginning to feel confident that even us Dilliwallahs will get used to it”, says Deepak. “Mixed teams can
come in for short periods once a while to bring us back on track”, he
continues.
“This is uncanny. On the flight I was thinking of Maximum
Leverage Area. By leveraging on the road discipline aspect, there are three
major gains to be made – (1) A beginning of revival of citizens’ value system (2)
A marked improvement in respect and adoration for armed forces (3) A consequent
improvement of character and morale of the police”, says Vijay.
“Exactly!” says Deepak, quite taken up with excitement now.
“Delhi NCR is going to influence the rest of the country with ethics and values
instead of aggression.” Even Asha, the habitual India-basher has overcome her
resignation. “Imagine what it will look like when similar schemes take off in
other cities”, she says. “The nation should thank armed forces veterans. We can
argue about it in newsrooms and drawing rooms but the results speak for
themselves” says Manu. “Vijay, before our next reunion, India would have
transformed. You must come back for good well before that day!” jokes Deepak.
But Vijay isn’t joking when he says “Let’s see. That will be a dream come true”.
“Please get back to your seat - you are not allowed to change
seats. We are about to begin descent”, the airhostess wakes Vijay with a stern
expression. Vijay smiles - he has a dream and what’s more, he has a proposal.
He is not annoyed with the cabin crew any more. Moving back to his seat beside
Asha, Vijay looks over her shoulder as the dots and specks below the windows
steadily gain magnitude.
“भारत जागेगा !”, he says to the stern-faced air-hostess. This time, even she
can’t help but smile.
