Bharat Jagega

‘AI174 - San Francisco to Delhi - Boarding’ reads the LCD display in the Air India Premium Lounge.  Each time he waits in the airport lounge to board a flight to India, Vijay is transported to that day 30 years ago. That day, looking forward to a new adventure in America, he had feared leaving India. Today, he feels a sense of trepidation on the opposite route. He knows the America he lives in but each time he goes to India, he finds that a changed India awaits him. Asha gently squeezes Vijay’s shoulder “Chalo, boarding shuru ho gayi”.

“Namaskar”, says an air-hostess, her hands folded in greeting, her manner belying politeness or welcome. “Still haven’t learnt to wear a welcome smile with their put-on namaskars”, says Asha to Vijay as they look for their seats. Vijay winces and throws up his hands in resignation. In America, Vijay wears his Indianness with pride. He rejoices in India’s economic progress and its cultural history. Yet, of late, his first steps towards India are ridden with doubt. His last trip, three years ago, had come as a shock. Vijay wouldn’t have ventured to go back so soon, if it weren’t for the Golden Jubilee Reunion of his 1967 batch of IIT Roorkee.

The classmates’ WhatsApp group called ‘Ex-Thos-1967’ had turned unusually active after the invitations were sent out by Alumni Association. Months of collective cajoling had followed. A dear old classmate in Mysore had suggested that many of the ’67 batch might not be able to travel long distances for the next organised reunion after 10 years. This was the last straw and many, including Vijay, had booked their tickets for the reunion.

“On our way”, says Vijay on the WhatsApp group. “Welcome back. Old friends await”, comes a prompt response. Vijay smiles and thinks of how all his friends in India are old friends now. He was a bright, young officer in the Indian Air Force once. Forced to leave the Air Force prematurely to attend to his ailing parents, Vijay had failed to settle into a second career in India. Indian industry had been more interested in his contacts in the Air Force than his engineering or managerial acumen. After his parents’ demise, Vijay, Asha and their two children had taken that first flight to USA.

The hum of the aircraft’s engines turns to a roar and Vijay closes his eyes. The next time the wheels touch down, it will be on Indian soil, he thinks. Amidst the excitement of a college reunion, he feels the revulsion lingering from his last trip. He hears the brash voices of the angry young men, who had roughed him up because he had not given them a pass - It had not been their right of way. He hears the dismissive tones of the policemen and the loud ruckus of the crowd that had gathered to ‘watch the fun’. “In-flight entertainment is unserviceable. I am not even going to bother to ask this time”, says Asha. “Such hospitality as only Air India can provide”, she adds with a wry smile.

Vijay feels the familiar pang of guilt. He would have liked to make a difference in shaping India. Yet, now he is a businessman from America, a non-resident-Indian who criticises Indian ‘incompetence’ and apathy at will but takes no responsibility for it. How would his Indian friends know that on his rocking chair, on foggy evenings in San Francisco, Vijay often dreams not only about India but for India? He now moves over to an empty window seat and resumes dreaming, “where can we begin to change India?”

When Vijay had fallen ill just before class XII exams and slipped in his studies, his father had said, “Focus on the weak subject, improving which, will bring maximum benefit.” “Think of Maximum Leverage Area”, he had insisted. Vijay had fared excellently. What would be the Maximum Leverage Area for a country like India, thought Vijay. That was easy. It was an answer he found on every trip to India – ‘character’. “When people go to work in Delhi, they go to war on the roads and end up in office on the other side”, he recalls his friend Mohan’s words. The disgrace, humiliation, and indignity, the death of the spirit, the loss of time and the waste of resources - a war that no one wins but each one fights. Vijay closes his eyes. The national character - its dilution, depletion and the occasional resurgence is all too evident on the roads. Is there an answer here, he wonders.

“Welcome Home Sir”, says a smiling air-hostess. “We have begun our descent into Delhi. Would you like to get back to your seat?” Vijay is pleasantly surprised at this cordiality from the airline staff. It makes Vijay feel more at ease about this Indian holiday. He moves back to his seat beside Asha and looks over her shoulder as the dots and specks below the plane windows steadily gain magnitude. On landing, Vijay and Asha are in for another surprise as passengers wait for those ahead of them to deplane first. “Hadn’t we forgotten the ‘pehle aap’ custom long ago?” Asha can’t help the sarcasm. They brace up for the uninviting immigration officers. But the officers, it turns out, have magically transformed into a firm yet pleasant lot. For the first time in so many years, Vijay and Asha feel welcomed by the gatekeepers to their own country.

The first attraction is a meeting with classmates, Deepak and Manu, who are at the airport to receive them. “So what do you think of the airport?” asks Manu as the four of them wheel the baggage carts to the multi-story parking.  “World-class! I agree”, says Vijay looking around in admiration. “Don’t get so excited. Wait till you get on the road”, whispers Asha. Soon they are coursing on the four lane road that bifurcates to Delhi and Gurgaon. Asha is incredulous. The traffic is slow but steady even on the usually chaotic stretches - no honking or criss-crossing across lanes. “Look at that”, Vijay points out to Asha. “What is it with Delhi drivers today? So much discipline!” They cannot believe that vehicles halt on ‘Red’ well behind the pedestrian crossing line.

Deepak, who has been at the wheel, quietly smiling to himself all this while, now ventures to explain. “We have another 20 kilometres to go. So allow me to bring you up to speed with some san-sanee-khez khabar from Delhi. Do you believe India is shining? I don’t mean economic progress, international relations, soft power and all that. When you see what you have just seen on the road, do you not believe India is shining?” Vijay and Asha are both silent, non-committal but spellbound. Deepak continues proudly. “It all started when a soldier in uniform was attacked by gundas in an incident of road rage. Nothing new or remarkable by Delhi standards you would say. This time though, the people’s patience had reached tipping point. The armed forces veterans’ associations came together and made a proposal to the Prime Minister’s Office - a proposal that they not only found irresistible, but also followed up with unprecedented swiftness. What you see on the roads is a result of that.”

“The discipline and civic courtesy has begun to show itself off the road too, I would say”, says Manu. “What do you mean? What did they propose?” Vijay asks, unable to imagine how this could have been executed.

Manu says. “Hai na? Just because it has never happened in the past, many of us thought it could never be done. I admit I was in that group for a while. Simply, this is what it took. About 2000 armed forces veterans offered their services to the nation at NO COST. Armed Forces attached a few hundred serving personnel. And, even the police, usually conspicuous by its absence, produced cops in large numbers. For the first 15 days, this large force spread across the NCR guiding people with road rules, road rage and road etiquette. After that, they were allowed to enforce discipline. The govt promptly issued special ordinances for heavy penalties and also for authorising service officers and veterans as traffic wardens.”

“The presence of a mixed team at the main traffic points ensured that the usual method of bribing to get away is no more relevant…” asks Vijay. “Yes! The best part is that people have started enjoying this change”, says Deepak. “I, for one, am certainly enjoying it”, says Asha.

Deepak continues. “This multi-dimensional force has also made roads available for the flow of traffic. In the first 15 days, they undertook the herculean task of marking side lanes on every major road inside the cities. Any motor or other vehicle outside these lanes was confiscated and penalised. We understand that the government has plans to outsource installation of ticket machines’ for parking on road sides. Contractors will recover costs through parking charges and market places will be relatively free when people are not permitted free parking.”

Vijay exclaims “Great! That should reduce safety hazards in crowded places too. The western society has also had its periods of chaos. Even where we live, it takes continuous enforcement to keep the road culture in check.”

“After the first 3-6 months, they say it will be phased out and only enforced for short periods thereafter. I only hope we all will get used to it by then”, says Manu. “The way it has gone in the last 3 months, I am beginning to feel confident that even us Dilliwallahs will get too used to it”, says Deepak.  

“This is uncanny. On the flight I was thinking of Maximum Leverage Area. By leveraging on the road discipline aspect, there are three major gains to be made – (1) A beginning of revival of citizens’ value system (2) A marked improvement in respect and adoration for armed forces (3) A consequent improvement of character and morale of the police”, says Vijay.

“Exactly!” says Deepak, quite taken up with excitement now. “Delhi NCR is going to influence the rest of the country with values and ethics instead of aggression.” Even Asha, the habitual India-basher has overcome her resignation. “Imagine what it will look like when similar schemes take off in other cities”, she says. “We should thank the veterans, armed forces leadership, police and political leadership. We can argue about it in newsrooms and drawing rooms but the results speak for themselves” says Manu. “Vijay, before our next alumni reunion, India would have transformed. You must come back for good well before that day!” jokes Deepak. But Vijay isn’t joking when he says “Let’s see. That will be a dream come true”.

“Please get back to your seat, Sir. You are not allowed to change seats. We are about to begin descent”, the airhostess wakes Vijay with a stern expression. Vijay smiles - he has a dream and what’s more, he has a proposal. He is not annoyed with the cabin crew any more. Moving back to his seat beside Asha, Vijay looks over her shoulder as the dots and specks below the windows steadily gain magnitude.

“भारत जागेगा !”, he says to the stern-faced air-hostess. This time, even she can’t help but smile.